Head Route Setter

Qualifications

  • Minimum 5 years of route setting experience, with 2+ years in a leadership role
  • USA Climbing Level 3 Setting certification preferred
  • Personal climbing experience: minimum 5.13 sport climbing, V8 bouldering
  • Proven experience managing setting teams and programs
  • Strong understanding of climbing movement, technique, and modern setting trends
  • Experience setting for competitions and commercial facilities
  • Current First Aid and CPR certification required
  • Knowledge of climbing wall construction and maintenance principles
  • Demonstrated expertise in climbing hold and volume placement techniques
  • Strong understanding of risk management and climbing safety standards

 

Benefits

  • Pay: based on experience
  • Possibility for Full time Salary
  • Gym Membership
  •  Pro deals with major climbing brands
  •  Travel opportunities for competitions and events
  •  Access to industry events and setting clinics

Responsibilities:

Program Development and Management

  • Design and implement comprehensive setting programs including:
  • Style and grade distribution
  • Hold and volume rotation schedules
  • Quality control protocols
  • Safety standards and risk management
  • Create setting plans for different wall sections and climbing styles
  • Develop grading criteria and standards
  • Maintain setting equipment and recommend new purchases
  • Coordinate with coaching staff for team-specific problems and routes

Setting Team Leadership

  • Conduct regular setting team meetings and briefings
  • Create individualized development plans for setters
  • Monitor and track:
    • Setting quality and consistency
    • Equipment condition and inventory
    • Setter performance and progression
    • Route turnover rates and timing
  • Provide guidance on:
    • Setting techniques and best practices
    • Risk management and safety
    • Movement principles
    • Modern setting trends
    • Team coordination and efficiency
  • Foster positive team culture emphasizing creativity and quality

Administrative Duties

  • Maintain detailed documentation including:
    • Setting schedules and records
    • Equipment inventory and maintenance logs
    • Route grading and tracking
    • Setter evaluations and feedback
    • Member feedback and responses
  • Organize regular setter meetings
  • Coordinate with Gym Management on:
    • Budget management
    • Equipment and hold purchases
    • Schedule planning
    • Facility policies and procedures
  • Plan setting clinics and special events
  • Manage team communication through designated channels

Competition Management

  • Develop competition setting plans including:
    • Problem design and sequencing
    • Hold and volume selection
    • Format-specific requirements
    • Schedule coordination
  • Provide chief setting duties at local and regional competitions
  • Conduct setting workshops on:
    • Competition formats
    • Modern techniques
    • Risk management
    • Time management
  • Analysis of competition problems and setter performance

Required Skills

  • Expert knowledge of climbing movement principles
  • Ability to set and climb at advanced levels
  • Strong understanding of:
    • Commercial setting practices
    • Risk management
    • Modern climbing trends
    • Training periodization
  • Proficiency with setting tools and equipment
  • Excellence in safety protocols
  • Strong organizational and planning abilities
  • Leadership and team management skills
  • Facility maintenance knowledge

Physical Requirements

  • Ability to climb and set at required levels
  • Capability to work safely at height
  • Standing and walking for extended periods
  • Lifting and moving equipment (up to 50 lbs)
  • Operating mechanical lifts and rope access equipment
  • Visual acuity to assess route quality and safety

This position reports directly to the General Manager and collaborates closely with Gym Operations. The role also requires collaboration with the coaching team, facility staff, and other departments. Schedule includes early mornings, some evenings, and occasional weekends for competitions.

 

Success in this role will be measured by:

  • Member satisfaction and retention
  • Setting team development and efficiency
  • Route quality and consistency
  • Safety record and risk management
  • Program growth and innovation
  • Professional development achievement
  • Team culture and community building